Questions & Answers
Send us your lawn care questions!
Are you wondering about what to do in the spring or fall? How to resolve specific weed problems? Or what type of fertilizer to use? Just ask - we'll do the research and post the answers here!
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Do I have to post a sign when using fertilizer?
No. Fertilizers do not contain pesticides unless you are using a 'weed and feed' product. Weed and feed products contain both a fertilizer and a pesticide and in that case you would need to post a sign. These products are often mistakenly used to prevent weeds. They do not. They unnecessarily spread potentially harmful chemicals on your entire lawn. Avoid products labeled as weed and feed, broadleaf control, or weed control. Look for slow release or organic fertilizers which will improve your lawn's natural ability to out-compete weeds.
Can you tell me when is the best time to treat for grubs in the Kitchener area?
It's important to remember that a few grubs are a natural part of every lawn. Grubs become a problem when they get beyond a certain number. Also, a stressed lawn or a lawn with a weak root system is more susceptible to damage from grubs. It is important to monitor for grubs before damage occurs. Monitoring also ensures that the damage in your lawn is due to grubs and prevents you from wasting your time and money on ineffective treatments. More information on monitoring, treating, preventing and repairing grub damage can be found on our fact sheet:
Hi, are you aware of any local businesses that offer natural lawn care? I don't want the hassle of buying, storing, and trying to figure out optimum time and quantity for applying products (natural or un) but can't seem to find info on any companies that provide alternative lawn service. Any advice would be appreciated!
A number of lawn care companies offer pesticide-free services in addition to chemical-based services. Companies that only offer pesticide-free services are listed on the Organic Landscape Alliance website (www.organiclandscape.org). Regardless of the type of service offered, make sure that good cultural practices such as aeration, fertilizing, and topdressing and overseeding are done, either by you or your lawn care service. Remember, the homeowner still has a part to play in lawn care. Proper mowing (3 inches high) and watering (deeply, but infrequently) are necessary for success.
What kind of grass should I grow in an area that gets a lot of sunlight?
For healthy drought tolerant grass I would suggest a mix of perennial rye grass and a red fescue. I would use very little Kentucky Blue as it is not a grass suited to our Ontario summers.
- response provided by Kitchener Master Gardeners
We have an extensive lawn and most of it is doing well, but we do have dry patches that look dry and parched after mowing. I wondered could we add some topsoil and nutrients to help it along?
First, make sure you are mowing all the lawn at about 3" high. There would be no problem adding a layer of compost or composted manure around these areas.You may have a few sandy patches in your yard and these would dry out faster. Compost will help hold the moisture.
- response provided by Kitchener Master Gardeners
Ensure that the compost you apply is weed free. Overseed with perennial ryegrass to quickly thicken up the grass in that area and prevent weeds.
How should I deal with a widespread growth of green moss in my lawn?
Normally healthy grass will out-compete moss. Moss is usually caused by poor aeration, poor drainage, low fertility, high acidity, or heavy shade. Mowing the grass too short allows moss to take over. If the lawn has not been aerated during the last few years start there. Fertilize with a high middle number and/or compost. Keep nitrogen at a minimum.
- response provided by Kitchener Master Gardeners
What is Integrated Pest Management (IPM)?
IPM is a system of controlling insect and diseases by a thorough understanding of the life cycle of the pests and the plants. Chemical controls are used as a last resort. In Ontario lawn care companies can receive IPM accreditation. Check our www.planthealthcare.ca for a list of IPM companies in your area.
Does leaving grass clippings on the lawn contribute to thatch buildup?
No. In fact, by leaving clippings on the lawn you are adding nutrients and water to the soil. This can help decompose any accumulated thatch.
How much soil should I put on the lawn when I am top-dressing?
Rake it in to a depth of ¼ of an inch. Make sure to use good quality top-soil or triple mix (a blend of composted manure, peat moss, and topsoil).
Are signs available for residents that say "pesticide free" or something similar? This way we can show our neighbours that a nice yard is possible without pesticides.
Yes, signs are available. They state "Our Lawn is Pesticide Free." We distribute them during workshops, community events, and neighbourhood visits. If you would like one, please click on the 'contact us' link at the top of the page and provide your mailing address and phone number.
Are we permitted to spot spray weeds that are difficult to dig out using a hand held spray bottle?
During the months of July and August, spot spraying with pesticides is not permitted. Spot spraying at other times of the year will require posting the 24 hour notification sign.
However, there are alternatives to spot spraying with pesticides. There is a product sold at most garden centres and hardware stores that is a spray bottle of concentrated acetic acid (similar to vinegar) that is effective for spot treatments. Care must be taken to only spray the weeds, because it will also kill any grass that it contacts.
Can herbicide be used to eliminate weeds that are growing and expanding in cracks in walkways or driveways?
The Pesticides By-Law pertains to lawns only. Driveways, sidewalks, and patios are not covered by the by-law. However, you may still want to consider using natural products to resolve this problem. Spray bottles of acetic acid (strong vinegar) are available at many stores and garden centres and are quite effective at killing weeds on sidewalks and driveways.
I have a single Macintosh apple tree in my back yard. I normally spray insecticide/fungicide 3-5 times a year to control apple scab. I am wondering if the new pesticide bylaw includes the spraying of my apple tree. Also do you have any suggestions re different natural ways of reducing apple scab (I already prune the tree yearly) or different varieties of apple that are more resistant?
Try to select varieties that are scab-resistant or scab tolerant, such as GoldRush or Liberty. A good nursery should have good labels.
Apple scab is a fungus that reproduces by releasing spores. Some spores can germinate within a few minutes or can remain dormant until the exacting conditions of water and temperature appear. Good air circulation is most important to reduce moisture on foliage, stems, flowers and the fruit. Keep the tree centre open with pruning.
At the first sign of a fungal infection remove all parts that show the symptoms. Sometimes it shows as olive green spots on the under side of young leaves, then on the upper leaf surfaces and blossoms. Dispose of the infected fruit. Rake up and remove all the fallen leaves.
Perhaps increase the number of sprays to weekly from green tip until blossoms begin, depending on weather and humidity.
- response provided by Kitchener Master Gardeners
What do you do when you have a neighbour that does nothing around his property? I get his annual crabgrass and creeping charlie plus all the other weeds that go with it including scotch thistle that's 3 feet high.
Encouraging vigorous growth of turf grass is the best defense. The correct choice of grass for the situation is critical. Cultural practices will go a long way to combat weed problems. Leave the grass long. If turfgrass is cut too short, this encourages weed invasion. Don't remove more than 1/3 of the leaf when mowing. Frequent mowing reduces the competitive strength of the grass plants.
Mowing does remove annual weeds and eliminates weed seed production. Irrigate weekly to help produce deep-rooted turf. Annual aeration will prevent weeds that thrive in compacted soil. Also, mechanical removal of the weeds helps. Don't let the thistles flower, dig the plants out. Correct cultural practices are the best defense.
- response provided by Kitchener Master Gardeners
I have some large maple trees on my boulevard. They provide a lot of shade and the grass does not grow very well under these trees. What kind of ground cover can I put under these trees? One problem I have is that we do get lots of leaves falling in the fall and I need to be able to rake under these trees each year.
Listed below are plants tolerant to dry shade, but I must emphasize, after they've been well-established, at least one year. The maples will always create harsh issues with dryness and sucking the life out of the existing soil. You will need to top up the soil every year with h umus and compost. You may need to water occasionally. Try to leave some of the fallen leaves on for soil enrichment.
Shrubs - Hedera - English Ivy; Ilex - Holly; Pachysandra; Cornus canadensis - Bunchberry; Euonymus fortunei or japonicus; Snowberry
Perennials - Acanthus mollis - Bear breeches; Aconitum - monkshood; Anemone hupenhensis; Aquilegia vulgaris; Dicentra - Bleeding heart; Epimedium; Euphorbia; Hardy geranium- Cranesbill; Vinca; Digitalis-foxglove; Ajuga; Dianthus detoides; Diascia; Erodium; Hellebores; Lamium; Daffodils; Tulips
- response provided by Kitchener Master Gardeners
My lawn was laid on ground that is full of lots and lots of rocks. I don't have any topsoil. Can I put topsoil on my existing lawn or do I need to start from scratch?
It's a big job to start over, but in the long run, it would be best. Lawns need at least 4 inches of topsoil to support a large root system for each little grass plant. There is no nutrition in rocks!
You could limp along over the years by adding a half-inch of topsoil every year. The base would build up by adding the organic matter, but probably never be terrific.
- response provided by Kitchener Master GardenersHow do you get rid of white grubs?
First of all identify the pest. Peel back a small area of sod to see the ugly whitish larvae of the June bug or beetle. Usually 5 - 10 larvae per square foot needs treatment. Persistent healthy cultural practices work well:
- A good fall lawn cleanup will help reduce the number of grubs that over-winter in your yard. Rake the lawn to remove excessive thatch.
- Vigorous lawns can tolerate more grub feeding than stressed lawns without showing damage. Extensive root systems and lots of leaf to provides nutrients and energy to repair the root damage. June bugs like to breed in shorter length grass so leaving your turf long in another benefit.
- Remove excessive thatch and aerating compacted soil areas.
- Keep the lawn irrigated and fertilized your lawn to maintain the turf vigour. Water no more than once a week during drought conditions.
- Applying a top dressing compost and overseeding with grass appropriate to the area may help.
Parasitic nematodes are also a control. They can be bought as a powder or embedded in a sponge which is soaked in water. Then apply the nematodes with a sprayer or watering can. Soak the area well with the solution. It may take more than six weeks before results are seen.
- response provided by Kitchener Master Gardeners
Also, if using nematodes, it is very important to follow the package instructions to ensure success.
I have a lawn that is very bumpy and uneven. What is the best way to even it out while maintaining a healthy lawn? Can I have the lawn rolled first and then aerated?
Unfortunately, lawn rolling contributes to soil compaction which inhibits grass growth. Also, rolling is only a temporary solution. Bumpy areas are created by worm castings and even a rolled lawn will become uneven again in a relatively short time. Frequently adding topsoil to low areas may help over time.
Is there a pesticide free way to get rid of ants in my lawn?
First, consider if the ants are actually creating a problem - is there a large mound? Or are they in a traffic area? Ants are beneficial because they are both pollinators and seed dispersers. They are also great at tilling the soil.
If they are a problem, they can be encouraged to move by keeping their mound wet. Alternatively, you can use a commercially-available mixture of boric acid and sugar. Sprinkle the product around the ant hill. The ants will die after ingesting it. Be careful to keep away from pets. Another option is to fill a shaker with 50% bicarbonate of soda and 50% icing sugar and sprinkle on the ant hill. They ingest this and their system cannot handle the bicarbonate.
- response provided by Kitchener Master Gardeners
It is difficulty to keep the weeds at bay on our boulevard. We would like to consider planting something other than grass, but don't want it to stand out compared to our neighbours. Any suggestions for a drought tolerant species that will put up with harsh sun and winter salt spray?
The following are good choices for your boulevard. They are low-growing and salt and sun tolerant plants: Stachys byzantina (Woolly Lamb's Ear), Geranium sanguineum (Cranesbill), Centaurea (John Coutts), Tagetes (African marigold), Portulaca, Eschscholzia californica (California poppy).
Also consider a low growing creeping thyme - Thymus praecox (wooly thyme) or Thymus pseudolanuginosus. Both grow less that a 1" high and can be used separately or mixed.
- response provided by Kitchener Master Gardeners
I have clover in my lawn, what do I have to use to take the clover out of my out lawn?
Clover is a perennial that reproduces by under and above ground roots as well as the seeds. I have lots and it's spreading in my yard. It fixes nitrogen in the soil and feeds turf grasses so the need for lawn fertilizers is reduced. Clover stays green throughout the summer drought. Perhaps it's not such a bad thing!
If you still want to be rid of it the only pesticide-free way is by hand digging. Sorry!
- response provided by Kitchener Master Gardeners
Clover tends to grow in low-nitrogen soil, so spring and fall fertilizer applications can prevent clover.
You say that November is the best month to fertilize. What kind should be used?
Choose a faster realeasing fertilizer then you would in the spring to allow the grass to take up the nutrients before winter. Make sure to apply properly to avoid burning your lawn. Many companies offer a "winterizer" or fall fertilizer.The fertilizer should be applied when the grass is green but not growing. Fertilizing in late fall allows grass to store the nutrients it needs for a healthy start in the spring.
How can you tell when your lawn is dead and if so, can you suggest any lawn care company to redo my entire lawn at a reasonable price?
This fall, we have received enough rainfall so that your lawn should have 'greened up' by now. If not, you may have some significant problems. A lawn care company can help diagnose the problem and suggest steps for repair or replacement. Beware of a lawn care contractor that suggests pesticide applications as the only solution. Pesticides may get rid of weeds or insects, but do not fix the underlying problem that allowed them to occur. Look in the phone book for companies that are IPM accredited and always get at least three different quotes. For more information about choosing a lawn care company, click here.
Unfortunately we bought weed & feed as a fertilizer not knowing that it contains herbicides (bought it at Canadian Tire, why is it not banned from the stores though?) My question is how long the granules will remain in the grass and what can we do to faster dissipate it into the ground? We usually stay away from chemicals but the weed had invaded our lawn lately and although we mow with a mechanical machine the grass doesn't seem to thicken enough.
Pesticide product sales are regulated by the provincial government. Municipalities do not have the authority to prohibit the sale of these products.
Regarding weed and feed, you should follow the product instructions regarding how long to stay off the grass after an application. It is unlikely that you can do anything to cause the product to dissipate more quickly. Weed problems can be greatly reduced by following the lawn care instructions described in this website. For the fall, make sure you fertilize with a slow release fertilizer to give your grass a boost in the spring. This will help thicken your lawn and crowd out weeds.
Over the years I have re-seeded a hand full of lawns, one seeding produced a lawn with wide leaves (to me resembling crab grass). What kind of grass produces a thin blade and has a deeper root growth?
The most drought tolerant grasses are the fescues and perennial rye grass (which have thin blades). Blue grass has a fine blade but is not suited to our Ontario summers. To encourage deep roots, mow the established grass high, 3 inches, and if watering, give the lawn 1 inch each time and only once every week or two.
- response provided by Kitchener Master Gardeners
Fescues also grow well in shade and generally have much deeper root system then Kentucky Blue grass when proper cultural practices are followed.
Hello, can you recommend a sod that is drought/shade tolerant and can hold up to occasional kids play!
Red fescue is drought/shade tolerant. It will also take a considerable amount of kids play. When buying grass seed read the contents and purchase seed that has a large quantity of red fescue. Mow the lawn high.
- response provided by Kitchener Master Gardeners
Look for brands of grass seed that state the percentage mix of grasses on the package label. If purchasing sod, look for a blend of fescues and ryegrasses instead of Kentucky Blue grass.Mow high at 2.5-3 inches and if watering, water deeply (depth of one inch) and infrequently (maximum once per week) to encourage deep root growth and increase drought tolerance.
My whole yard has moss all over. How do I get rid of it and bring my lawn back?
Is your yard shade or sun? What type of soil? Moss is usually caused by low fertility, poor drainage, high acidity, poor aeration, or heavy shade. Rake hard to remove the moss. Have the lawn aerated, and decide which of the above problems are encouraging the moss to grow. There are products on the market which claim to remove moss, but unless you fix the underlying problem the moss will come back.
- response provided by Kitchener Master Gardeners
To repair your lawn, add topsoil (compost or triple mix) to bare areas and overseed with a high quality grass seed containing a blend of fescues and perennial ryegrasses. Both do well in drought conditions, fescues grow well in shaded areas and ryegrasses prefer the sun. For more information on topdressing and overseeding click here. Once established, follow the healthy lawn care tips on the website to ensure your lawn stays strong.
What is the correct timing of seeding and feeding your lawn? Should I seed first or feed? If they need to be spaced out, how long in between?
Lawns can be seeded either in April/May or August/September (preferably both). Both times have cool nights and dew to help retain moisture. If seeding, any fertilizer should have a high middle number. There is a lawn starter fertilizer that can be added to the area being seeded. I would not add a high nitrogen fertilizer to new grass. If a lawn is to get only one application of fertilizer, it should be a late fall fertilizer.
- response provided by Kitchener Master Gardeners
When seeding, make sure to add compost or triple mix to any bare areas. Premixed fertilizer and grass seed can be bought at most garden centers. The fertilizer used in these mixtures is appropriate for new lawns. Starter fertiliser contains a higher amount of phosphorus (middle number) to help with root growth and development, important in new lawns. High nitrogen (the first number) is not good for your new lawn because the grass blades have not developed enough to properly use the nitrogen. Regular fertilizer (high nitrogen) can be applied to lawns after the first mowing.For more information on overseeding, top dressing and fertilizing click here.
