Healthy Lawn Care
There's more than one way for your lawn to be healthy. Reducing or eliminating pesticides is definitely a healthy option for your family, pets, and neighbours. However, your lawn itself needs to be healthy in order to resist pests and out-compete weeds.
Follow these simple steps for a strong, healthy lawn that won't depend on chemical pesticides. Check our calendar and our Lawn Care Illustrated feature for more information.
Raise the height of your mower
Raising the height of your mower is one of the simplest and most important things you can do for your lawn's health. Adjust your mower so that it cuts your grass at 2.5 to 3 inches (6 to 8 cm) high. Longer grass blades result in deeper root growth. Longer grass also creates shade that prevents weed seeds from germinating.
Mowing frequency is also important. The more often you mow, the thicker your lawn will become. Once per week is sufficient when your grass is actively growing.
Instead of bagging your grass clippings, leave them on the lawn. Unless they are exceptionally long, grass clippings won't cause any problems. In fact, they can provide about one-third of your lawn's nutrient needs and are a valuable source of organic matter.
Consider using an electric or reel (push) mower. These are much less polluting than gas-powered mowers. The average lawn mower emits as much smog-forming pollution in one hour as eight new cars traveling at 55 miles per hour.
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Fertilize
Fertilizing is important to overall grass health and is a very effective way to prevent weeds. Fertilizing provides the nutrients for a healthy, thick lawn that out-competes weeds. Choose slow release fertilizers that are much less likely to 'burn' the lawn. Check the package labelling to make sure the product is slow release.
Apply fertilizers in the spring and fall. Carefully follow the instructions on the package. Use a spreader to avoid burns, missed areas, and spotty green patches. Fertilizing your lawn by hand is never a good idea.
Avoid using need weed and feed. Weed and feed does not prevent weeds, and few people realize that the "weed" component of weed and feed is a pesticide. An effective and much healthier way to prevent weeds is to feed and seed - just add fertilizer and grass seed.
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Click here for the fertilizer FACT SHEET
Topdressing and Overseeding
Topdressing involves spreading good quality topsoil or compost on top of your lawn. This adds organic matter and improves the condition of the soil. Look for bags of top dressing that contain a blend of compost, soil, and peat moss. Topdressing is essential on bare areas and on lawns with little topsoil. Add ¼ to ½ inch of topsoil or compost. Don't smother the grass blades.
Always use good quality compost to ensure it is weed-free. Avoid using non-composted manures, they may contain weed and crabgrass seeds.
Overseeding is the process of adding grass seed to your lawn to make it thicker and able to crowd out weeds. When overseeding:
- apply seed with a spreader or by hand
- choose high quality lawn seed that assures fewer weeds and poor grass types
- for shady areas, be sure to pick a blend that is labelled for shade, and sun for the brighter areas
- avoid buying "all purpose" grass seed
- a mixture of grass types (perennial ryegrass, fescue, bluegrass) is more resistant to weeds and pests.
- After applying, water lightly for several days (follow watering regulations)
Early fall is the very best time to overseed, but it can also be done successfully in the early spring.
Topdressing and overseeding can be done together. Add grass seed to your lawn and then cover with topsoil or compost. Alternately, mix the seed and the soil and spread them on the lawn together. Gently rake a thin layer of the mixture over the entire lawn or just on problem areas. Ensure the seeds remain moist for several days either through rainfall or daily light watering.
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Watering
When watering a lawn, water infrequently, but deeply. This means water less than once per week, but when you do water, water to a depth of 1 inch. An empty tuna can is approximately one inch deep. Place the can beside your sprinkler and stop watering once it is full. Infrequent, deep watering results in deep root growth.
Some new models of sprinklers have built in timers which automatically shut off to avoid over-watering. To determine the timer setting, just use the tuna can method described above. Time how long it takes the can to fill up and then you will know the correct setting for future watering.
During extended dry periods in the summer, allow your grass to go dormant (brown). Watering only once per month (about ¼ to ½ inch is sufficient) will keep your grass alive and allow it to green up once fall rains return.
The best time to water is in the morning. Remember to follow any water restrictions that may be in place.
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Aeration
Aeration is the process of removing plugs of soil from your lawn. This creates spaces for air, water and nutrients to penetrate into the soil and promotes the growth of beneficial microorganisms. It also increases water absorption and reduces surface runoff.
Aeration is essential for compacted soil. Signs of compacted soil are:
- bare patches
- standing water after rain
- decreased grass vitality
To test for compacted soil, stick a screwdriver or pencil into the soil. If the soil is compacted this will be difficult to do.
Aeration is also essential to reduce thatch problems. Thatch is that tough layer of dead organic matter between the lawn and the soil. When thatch becomes too thick, it blocks water and nutrients from getting to the soil.
Avoid aerating when your soil is very dry. Wait until after it has rained or water deeply the day before you aerate. Spring and fall are the best times to aerate.
It is a great idea to add high quality grass seed after aerating. Topdressing can also be done.
Aerators can be rented or lawn care companies can provide this service.
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Dethatch
Thatch is a tough mixture of dead grass and roots that accumulate and form a layer at the soil surface.
In a healthy lawn, insects, earthworms beneficial fungi and other micro-organisms break down thatch and aerate the soil naturally. One cm (1/2") or less of thatch is normal and requires no treatment.
A number of conditions, such as excessive watering, too much nitrogen or excessive pesticide use, may lead to a situation where the thatch exceeds 1 cm. This may prevent water and nutrients from getting into the soil and down to the root system and it can also harbour harmful insects so dethatching is required.
Dethatching can be done whenever required. Excess thatch can be removed using a stiff rake or specialized de-thatching equipment. Talk to a lawn care expert at your local garden centre about dethatching tools or call a lawn care company.
